Your chemical exfoliant cheat sheet.
By FP contributor, Caitlin Madden.
When it comes to skincare, it seems like there’s always a buzzword or a new ingredient “you just have to try,” something that promises to give you your best skin ever. But in all that excitement over a viral product or a new skincare trend, we don’t always take the time to figure out what that ingredient actually does.
Take acids, for example. If you possess general skincare knowledge, you probably know acid = exfoliant. There are three types of hydroxy acids commonly used in skincare: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. These acids all work by chemically exfoliating dead skin cells, and they can help to treat acne, reduce the appearance of fine lines, leave skin glowing, and allow the rest of your skincare products to penetrate better for maximized results in your routine.
Depending on your skin type and concerns, one acid may be better suited for you than another, so how do you know what type of acid is right for you? Allow us to break it down.
The gentlest of the acids, PHAs or Polyhydroxy Acids, are ideal for sensitive skin types, providing surface exfoliation to help skin appear smoother and more even. PHAs are a close relative of AHAs, but have a smaller molecular structure, so they don’t penetrate as deeply — leading them to be a less irritating option that still gives results with regular use. PHAs are humectants, drawing moisture into the skin so that you stay hydrated, and they’re safe for even people with eczema or rosacea to use as they treat only the outermost layer of the skin.
Best for: Sensitive skin types
Benefit: Surface exfoliation for ultra-sensitive skin without causing irritation
Common types: Gluconolactone, Galactose, and Lactobionic Acid
We Recommend: Pai Skincare Phaze Clarifying Face Cleanser
A total powerhouse in your skincare routine, Alpha Hydroxy Acids penetrate deeper than PHAs due to their smaller molecule size, so they’re great at targeting signs of aging like fine lines and sunspots — increasing cell turnover to boost collagen production. AHAs are usually derived from natural sources like sugar and fruit, making them much gentler than a physical exfoliant but still strong enough to aid in resurfacing the skin. Be careful with them, though – AHAs can increase your sensitivity to the sun, so make sure you’re wearing sunscreen!
Best for: Normal and dry skin types
Benefit: Minimizes signs of aging, dullness and dehydration
Common types: Glycolic and Lactic Acid
We Recommend: Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
Blemishes meet their match with Beta Hydroxy Acids — oil-soluble exfoliants that penetrate deep into the pores to unclog them and remove excess oil. Ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, the most common BHA, Salicylic Acid, is effective in treating blackheads, whiteheads and milia on the skin. It exfoliates the top layer of the skin while also targeting the sebaceous glands in the pores, helping to unclog and prevent new blemishes from surfacing. Salicylic Acid also has anti-inflammatory properties to help reduce redness — leaving behind a clearer, more even-looking complexion.
Best for: Oily and acne-prone skin
Benefit: Penetrates deeply and cleanses pores
Common types: Salicylic Acid
We Recommend: Pai Skincare Salicylic Acid Booster Drops
When it comes to skincare, it seems like there’s always a buzzword or a new ingredient “you just have to try,” something that promises to give you your best skin ever. But in all that excitement over a viral product or a new skincare trend, we don’t always take the time to figure out what that ingredient actually does.
Take acids, for example. If you possess general skincare knowledge, you probably know acid = exfoliant. There are three types of hydroxy acids commonly used in skincare: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. These acids all work by chemically exfoliating dead skin cells, and they can help to treat acne, reduce the appearance of fine lines, leave skin glowing, and allow the rest of your skincare products to penetrate better for maximized results in your routine.
Depending on your skin type and concerns, one acid may be better suited for you than another, so how do you know what type of acid is right for you? Allow us to break it down.
PHAs
The gentlest of the acids, PHAs or Polyhydroxy Acids, are ideal for sensitive skin types, providing surface exfoliation to help skin appear smoother and more even. PHAs are a close relative of AHAs, but have a smaller molecular structure, so they don’t penetrate as deeply — leading them to be a less irritating option that still gives results with regular use. PHAs are humectants, drawing moisture into the skin so that you stay hydrated, and they’re safe for even people with eczema or rosacea to use as they treat only the outermost layer of the skin.
Best for: Sensitive skin types
Benefit: Surface exfoliation for ultra-sensitive skin without causing irritation
Common types: Gluconolactone, Galactose, and Lactobionic Acid
We Recommend: Pai Skincare Phaze Clarifying Face Cleanser
AHAs
A total powerhouse in your skincare routine, Alpha Hydroxy Acids penetrate deeper than PHAs due to their smaller molecule size, so they’re great at targeting signs of aging like fine lines and sunspots — increasing cell turnover to boost collagen production. AHAs are usually derived from natural sources like sugar and fruit, making them much gentler than a physical exfoliant but still strong enough to aid in resurfacing the skin. Be careful with them, though – AHAs can increase your sensitivity to the sun, so make sure you’re wearing sunscreen!
Best for: Normal and dry skin types
Benefit: Minimizes signs of aging, dullness and dehydration
Common types: Glycolic and Lactic Acid
We Recommend: Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
BHAs
Blemishes meet their match with Beta Hydroxy Acids — oil-soluble exfoliants that penetrate deep into the pores to unclog them and remove excess oil. Ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, the most common BHA, Salicylic Acid, is effective in treating blackheads, whiteheads and milia on the skin. It exfoliates the top layer of the skin while also targeting the sebaceous glands in the pores, helping to unclog and prevent new blemishes from surfacing. Salicylic Acid also has anti-inflammatory properties to help reduce redness — leaving behind a clearer, more even-looking complexion.
Best for: Oily and acne-prone skin
Benefit: Penetrates deeply and cleanses pores
Common types: Salicylic Acid
We Recommend: Pai Skincare Salicylic Acid Booster Drops
A Little Extra Exfoliation
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